Cono Sur Trip 2002 – Argentina, Uruguay, Chile

Southern Cone 2002

This was a month-long trip I took in November and December 2002 with a primary focus on Patagonia and the Andes regions.  I still remember how constantly I was on the move, so much to see over a HUGE geography.  The conventional maps (oriented with the northern hemisphere at the center) don’t adequately scale South America, but new reversed map constructs such as the Upside-Down map better represent land mass proportions.  Imagine taking a bus over half the continental USA in a mere four weeks, sightseeing to boot.

These entries were originally emails to friends and family, here they are presented with photos.  Enjoy!

Family Reunion & (Even Further) Southbound‏

The saga continues after hangover recovery, on to Uruguay for a great family reunion, then en route to Patagonia…

Gran reunión with my 1986 AFS host family. A beautiful family, full of love and spirit. And growing every year!
Gran reunión with my 1986 AFS host family. A beautiful family, full of love and spirit. And growing every year!

27 Nov 2002

Here’s the latest of my travel adventures.  Wow so much has happened, let’s see where I last left off… oh Buenos Aires, was it?  Seems like an eternity ago…

Anyway, after I finally recovered from the Big Gay Night Out hangover, I was ready to rally again by 6 PM, so I reunited with the Argentine juggler since she invited me to this REALLY COOL community theater event in a working-class neighborhood just south of downtown.  She said the theater is a converted warehouse (just my type) that was intended to be an arts school, buy that never happened.  Anyway the rough-n-tough locals decided to turn it into a community theater and for twelve years have produced barrio-written and performed original works.  It receives no governmental funding but has managed to produce very innovative theater and have established a reputation for excellence among porteños…. That night’s performance was called “El fulgor argentino” and was sort of a musical/performance art thingey that dealt with the history of the neighborhood from the 1920’s until now, involving amazing costumes, cool music, probably 100+ local performers (no professionals), incredible puppets, sound efects, etc etc.  Wow, I TOTALLY loved it as you can well imagine.  Even before the show there were a couple street vendors selling everything from gourmet pizzas, roast lamb on a spit (even I admit it *looked* tasty), more than a dozen homemade pastries, beer, wine, etc.  Very different from the Italian sausage crapola normally sold on the streets.  I treated my friendly host to both the show and pre-event wine/dessert — the total cost: $9.  Unbelievable.

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Southbound & Buenos Aires Party

In from of the Casa Rosada (Presidential Palace) where the Madres de Plaza de Mayo courageously defied the regime in support of their "disappeared" children during the Dirty War
In from of the Casa Rosada (Presidential Palace) where the Madres de Plaza de Mayo courageously defied the regime in support of their “disappeared” children during the Dirty War

21 Nov 2002

Still having the time of my life here in BA with Bob and Jason — the people are awesome!  It’s so European — just like being in Italy and Spain at the same time.  Everything is so classy, the restaurants and AWESOME seafood and of course vino.  Been spending lots of time with the boys shopping like crazy… Bob’s friend Jason is very nice he’s taking full advantage of the bargains to decorate his new Dartmouth St. condo.  It’s actually kinda fun… spent the afternoon in awesome antique shops  LOTS of great stuff for ridiculously cheap prices.

I found some really cool antique ceramic tiles with boats and stuff that are really neat but I’m still looking for just the right stuff.  I did buy an awesome piece of wall art at a shop specializing in Native American Argentine crafts.   It’s really beautiful and unique,  most of all it’s not at all “colorful” and so Paul will love it and it will go perfectly in the house.  The boys love it too and might buy similar ones.  Also there’s some REALLY COOL furniture stores with GREAT pieces chairs, tables, bookshelves, bars that would go wonderfully in the house.  They are kinda a Western style, but with some Mexican characteristics, beautiful hand-wrought iron handles.  They actually are kind of mission style.  And the prices are like a fraction of what they’d cost in the states.  Paul would burst down here.  Lots of amazing things to buy.

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