Scotland, 1998

A dramatic and gratifying visit to Scotland, starting in Glasgow and a drive to the west coast to sample scotch in Oban and Mallaig, then off to the islands: Skye, Lewis and Harris. Back to the mainland via Ullapool and into the Highlands past the venerable Ben Nevis.

We drove along the rugged north coast, which is constantly pounded by the rough North Sea. We caught a ferry to the Orkney Islands where we visited amazing Skara Brae, the best-preserved Neolithic village in Europe dating to 3200 BC. Our days there were relaxing as we enjoyed the distinctly quiet people and Nordic culture still alive on the island.

We returned to the south via Inverness and the central Highlands, passing Loch Ness (of course we looked but didn’t find) and ended our stay in elegant Edinburgh. We covered a lot of ground but each moment was filled with natural spectacle, Scotland knows how to draw you in.

Oh, but let me tell you that I love you
That I think about you all the time
Caledonia you’re calling me
And now I’m going home

– Dougie MacLean, Caledonia

Spain, 1990-1991

Tarjeta de estudiante

I spent my junior year in Madrid as part of Wesleyan University’s study abroad program. I was a young man in Europe, establishing a life in a new continent, loving the beautiful language and culture and sensuality of Spain. My experience was overwhelmingly positive but I often felt alone in Madrid, lost perhaps in a bustling metropolis in a foreign land, but each day I discovered new things about myself and my confidence grew steadily.

Change was in the European air: Spain was progressing at breakneck speed a mere decade after Franco’s despotic fascism loosed its death grip on democracy, the culture and economy a whirlwind. The Maastricht Treaty was in the works, promising full European Union economic integration. The Iron Curtain was crumbling, mass migrations were straining every border. There was war in Iraq, US fighter jets landing at Torrejón Air Base and tanks on the streets of Madrid. In the spring I suffered the most extreme personal tragedy I had known. I was on the move constantly, visiting every corner of the Iberian Peninsula and much of the Continent. I was restless, emotionally and intellectually hungry, and my identity was changing too; in Madrid I found enormous courage to finally accept my sexuality. I came home from Spain stronger, grown.

I have returned to Spain countless times since that first year. While it continues to change, Madrid always feels like home.